![]() As someone who is exactly one quarter Swedish, I feel that I can roll my eyes at all of this while also enjoying N!ck’s wholeheartedly. N!ck’s branding makes me want to scream, “We get it! You’re Swedish!” The Oatly vibes, the “Swedish-style light ice cream” written prominently on certain labels, the insistence on calling the flavors by their Swedish names as if this were Ikea and not the frozen food aisle. Now I can spend $7 on this pint at the fancy bodega and feel young at heart. This particular flavor is made with a coconut cream base and takes me back, waaaaay back, to when I lived a block from a Pinkberry and spent 50 percent of my grad student budget on cups of tart fro-yo with li’l mochi on top. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: This is the creamiest nondairy ice cream I’ve ever had straight from the freezer. Whether you’re a fro-yo stan or an EVOO enthusiast or an eco-warrior looking to cut back on animal products, these have you covered. My freezer got pretty chaotic, but I persevered through the too hard, too watery, and too banana-y to find the best vegan pints out there. I love an arbitrary food challenge, so I set out to try as many nondairy ice creams as I could get my spoon into. But savvy branding doesn’t always equal delicious, as I must remind myself. And unlike the ’70s era look that previously plagued these vegan options, the current roster of plant-based cartons looks goooood. In some parts of Brooklyn, anyway, vegan ice creams now outnumber the cow-made stuff. There came a point, sometime in late 2019 or early 2020, when the balance in the frozen aisle seemed to tip. ![]()
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